Monday, November 28, 2011

Lining Up to Vote...

Our conservator Lotfi Hassan was in Cairo over the weekend, spending time with his family and going to vote. He had to stand in line for five and a half hours (in El Tagamoe), during which time he took these photos:
He barely made it to the airport for his flight back to Luxor this evening!

Here in Luxor, our local staff were given a holiday so that they could go vote. I saw the inked fingers of at least two of our kitchen workers. A Cairo friend announced on Facebook that he had voted for the first time in his life!

There is more voting tomorrow in Luxor, with the schedule for the governorates staggered over several weeks.

Here are some photos I took in Luxor over the past couple of weeks showing some of the election posters and banners:
Exciting times in Egypt! Think positive thoughts, please!

New Carpets!

I've moved into a larger room here at CH and so have more floor space. Once everything was unpacked and positioned or stowed away, it became evident that I would need another carpet to accompany the kilim I had bought back in my first season:
This time I wanted a carpet, probably in wool. So on Saturday last, Anaït, Keli (both of whom were interested in purchasing) and I walked over to Aladdin's Hule in the tourist souk. The family who own this shop have been good friends of CH staff for many years. And this is where I purchased the original kilim.

After the formalities of greeting and meeting Badr's young son Patrick and exchanging news were completed to everyone's satisfaction, and after helba tea orders had been placed, we got down to the business of selection. I showed Badr the photo above so that he could search for similar color combinations. Almost immediately he brought out the carpet I eventually bought. While I looked at several others, this was the one that really spoke to me.

The others also viewed carpets, and selected ones that they were interested in. When it came time to settle on the price for mine (I was prepared to pay at least $300 for it) no bargaining was necessary, as Badr quoted an extraordinarily reasonable price well under my limit.

Of course I laid it out as soon as I got back to the house. It was perfect, both in colors and in size. And here it is:
I am one very happy camper!

Monday, November 21, 2011

My Silence...

Those of you who followed my posts in the early days of the revolution may be wondering why I have posted nothing this time around. I am simply too overwhelmed by the awful things which have happened over the past few days. I cannot wrap my mind around the slaughter of a 13-year-old or the image of a soldier dumping the body of a protestor in a garbage heap. I am grateful that Luxor has remained calm so far. And I try to remain hopeful that the elections (Monday in Luxor) will bring about change for the better...

Another Luxor Sunset...

What can I say?

Saturday, November 19, 2011

A Sunday Stroll

I was able to get away for a stroll around Luxor a couple of weeks ago. The weather has been very cooperative--perhaps it's payback for the horribly hot October and November we had last year. But whatever the reason, I'm grateful for the good walking weather. I processed down the Corniche from the front gate of CH and was intrigued by the work that has been done to turn this part into a pedestrian/caleche thoroughfare. I haven't been down to the lower Corniche yet, but the upper stretch looks pretty good. Still quite a bit of work to be done, but here are some shots:
Can you guess what this is going to be? More later!

Some of the shops along the lower Corniche
Another view of the mysterious installation
Plantings waiting to go in. Love the baby cacti!

Some of the sphinxes uncovered during the excavation of the Avenue of Sphinxes between Luxor Temple and Karnak Temple.


Many have been cobbled together from various bits and pieces (not necessarily from the same sphinx!) with a lot of cement in between. I still find it hard to understand why so many homes and businesses had to be torn down for this result. There are many more complete or almost complete examples in the areas close to the two temples.

And just opposite that sphinx, another door to add to my collection!


Some street scenes, one looking north on the eastern side of the avenue of sphinxes and another looking east along Emilio Hotel Street:

There's a lot of political graffiti around Luxor these days. Here's one sample:
After a congenial visit to Aboudi Bookstore, of course I headed up to The Roof for my first order of their delicious lamb chops. The ritual meal consists of fresh lemon juice, the lamb chops with Egyptian rice and grilled vegetables, all followed up by an apple shisha. And this is the view, particularly wonderful on such a clear day:
Mosque and First Pylon at Luxor Temple
Luxor Temple Colonnade with the sacred mountain in the background

Last picture of the day, a view of the mosque and First Pylon from ground level across the plaza in front of the temple:  
Mosque and First Pylon from ground level across the plaza in front of the temple

Wednesday, November 09, 2011

Curious Crawling Critter...

There seems to be no end of "wildlife" at CH! Over the Eid, I spotted this character crawling across the driveway:


When I passed the spot later there was no caterpillar, but there was a suspicious stain. Oh no, you don't think...

Sunday, October 30, 2011

First Impressions...

I've been in Luxor for two weeks now and it's been crazy: getting the library ready to open (24 October), moving into my new room, general settling in...

In any case, I thought I'd share some images which make up my "first impressions" on returning to Luxor and CH.

Cats, of course, come first! Within a day of my arrival I'd had good "face time" with several of the cats. My new room has been the "hot ticket" for them, since the previous resident did not welcome cats! I don't think any of them had ever been in the room before. These photos are of cat encounters on the grounds:
Buttons (who seems rather bored with the whole thing!)

Ozzie











































And what's that "whoosh" I hear? Hot-air balloons, of course! Beautiful rainbow-striped balloons right over CH, one coming across from the Nile, the other appearing behind Healey House:


































And lush bougainvillea:

















First sunset and shisha of the season:



















































A typical Saturday morning street scene in Luxor:

















Caleches on the Corniche (with cruise boats in the background):

















This narrow strip along the Nile is so incredibly fertile! These plantings were only twigs when we left in April:

















Some more luxuriant plantings:

















And here's Ozzie again. He came back to CH in April, ostensibly to spend the summer and then be reclaimed by his person. But I think he's here to stay! This is his usual manner of relaxing, with paws crossed before him:


















I'm so happy to be back in Egypt, in Luxor and at Chicago House! Homecoming is sweet...



Monday, October 24, 2011

BREAKING NEWS! Pork in Luxor

I am in "hog heaven"! My friend Jane Akshar just posted this article on her blog:
http://networkedblogs.com/oTnP4
I've been salivating over the product list! Kent is off to check it out and will report back.

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

The Rise and Rise of Street Art in Cairo

"Cairo’s street art scene has seen a renaissance of late. Before graffiti was mostly of the ‘Hamada loves Lulu’ variety with some local gangs logos making appearances and shout outs to the likes of Eminem and Metallica, political statements were far and few in between. Today you can’t get away from the political and social statements boldly being made on bridges, under-passages and walls. From stencilling to coloured murals Egypt’s capital has been witness to a cascade of artistic expression that accurately reflects the current mind-set and thoughts of most."  The full article is below:

http://www.palebluenews.co.uk/2011/08/15/rise-and-rise-of-street-art-in-cairo/

Saturday, August 13, 2011

PHARAOHS USED THIS AVENUE - British Pathe

Check out this little gem from British Pathé filmed in 1964. From the website description:
"GV The Temple of Karnak on the banks of the Nile. Nearer shot ditto. LV The pillars in the Hypostyle Hall. LV From top of the pillars. GV The Luxor Temple at one end of the Avenue of Sphinx. SV Arch with very clear inscriptions on it. GV The Temple of Karnak at the other end of the avenue. GV Pan. From the temple of Karnak along the avenue where men are still working digging out Sphinx. LV Abdel (or Mahmoud) Elzarik and an assistant uncovering a Sphinx. CU Elzarik brushes sand away. SV ditto. LV Men pushing carts loaded with sand away from the site. GV ditto. GV The avenue lined with Sphinx. LV ditto. SV Elzarik pointing to inscriptions on the side of a sphinx. CU ditto. CU Head of Sphinx. SV ditto. GV The Avenue of Sphinx."

Saturday, July 09, 2011

Friday, July 08, 2011

Demonstrators gather in Luxor in solidarity with Tahrir protest - Politics - Egypt - Ahram Online

Demonstrators gather in Luxor in solidarity with Tahrir protest - Politics - Egypt - Ahram Online
"At the Luxor Temple in the Upper Egyptian city of Luxor (ancient Thebes), another 2000 protesters stage a demonstration in solidarity with the ongoing mass protest in Tahrir Square."

Thursday, July 07, 2011

Earliest Image of Egyptian Ruler Wearing “White Crown” of Royalty Brought to Light

Be sure to watch the slideshow! I could not see the king figure, even in the closeup shots. Thank heaven that Labib Habichi had recorded the scene before it was damaged.

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

AUC Press revolution works, festival prompt some skepticism


I don't appreciate what seems like AUC's and AUC Press's appropriation of a revolution for commercial purposes, but I also believe that they were between a rock and a hard place: after all, at the time when the new AUC campus was inaugurated Suzanne Mubarak was the First Lady of Egypt, so it was not inappropriate for them to invite her to serve in this capacity. On the other hand, many of AUC's actions during the revolution were, in my opinion, indefensible.

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Another Battle for Tahrir

Check out this link:
http://bambuser.com/channel/sherifboraie/broadcast/1778383
It's happening right now!
Here's more:
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/06/28/egypt-protesters-tahrir-square_n_886559.html?ref=fb&src=sp
and
http://www.almasryalyoum.com/en/node/472461

More on Desroches Noblecourt

A very nice article from AP as published in the Contra Costa Times:
http://www.contracostatimes.com/nation-world/ci_18357245?

I particularly like this bit about her involvement with the French Resistance and her arrest:
"During World War II, Desroches frequented some members of the French Resistance and was arrested in December 1940. 'I thought I was done for,' she told Le Monde. 'I told them what I thought of them, and I don't know why, they let me go after two days.'"

Saturday, June 25, 2011

French Egyptologist Christiane Desroches-Noblecourt dies

One of the many articles about this amazing woman published on the occasion of her death at the age of 97: http://networkedblogs.com/jCTMc The world owes her a debt of gratitude for the development of the campaign to salvage many of the monuments which would have been swallowed up by the waters of Lake Nasser back in the 1960s when the Aswan Dam was built. She will be missed!

Monday, June 20, 2011

Chuffed!

Yes, I'm feeling rather chuffed today. I just got word from the advertising agency that has been working on the new "Egypt Tourism Authority" website that it was finally up and running. They had contacted me before the revolution about using this Ramesseum photo I had taken several years ago to illustrate that page. I had completely forgotten about it until I received the email today. I think it looks rather nice!

Egypt Tourism Authority - Egypt: Where it all begins - Ramesseum: Ramses II's Mortuary Temple